The wisdom of those who have spent a lifetime doing something is always amazing. Nearly anything can apply, in some way, to your craft.
Surfing is completely subjective. Competition is best suited for sports where you have some line that’s being crossed with a ball, or a net the ball is getting put into—anything with a defined winning or losing situation. That’s competition.
Kids have the right to imitate their heroes. Some people shit on other people for that, but I think that’s the way nature intended it to be. You have heroes and you try to copy them until you become good enough to get off those train tracks behind them and do something for yourself.
Make it a beautiful life. You’ve only got one f–king chance. You’ve only got one go.